Walking the Thames Path...in stages

Putney Bridge to Hammersmith Bridge (Circular)
(approx. two and half hours not including stops!)

Equipment: sturdy walking shoes, bottle of water, Canon Powershot A2000 IS compact digital camera, spare batteries, Explore London’s Rural River Thames (Map 1) - Hampton Court to Albert Bridge.



I realise that I am a hoarder of touristy leaflets.  I pick them up when I see something I might like to visit or when I’m there for further information.  I’m also a sucker for gift shops at galleries, museums and other places of interest, though I have cut back on the spending in them!  Anyway, I have two boxes of leaflets, maps, timetables and postcards and as I found myself with an empty diary this week (apart from choir practice), the thought of being home with the housework was not an option I could contemplate.

This year I began thinking about the River Thames, where it starts and where it finishes.  I have maps (surprise, surprise) covering the London area of the Thames but I’d also looked at the website for the Thames Path National Trail.  The idea of walking it sounded rather good and became more appealing.  So this week I dug out the maps and decided to walk a stretch of it.  I picked a walk and then saw a better one.  Hubby and I had wanted to visit Fulham Palace for a while (we often go past it on the bus) so we had a little chat and decided to walk the stretch between Putney Bridge to Hammersmith Bridge but first stopping at Fulham Palace which is about a fifteen/twenty minute walk from Putney Bridge through some gardens.

Main entrance to Fulham Palace
Yesterday was the big day.  We set off on the bus to Putney Bridge and walked through the Bishops Gardens to Fulham Palace.  Established around the year 700 this served as the Bishop’s residence.  It was the country house of the Bishops’ of London.  The building is a mix of architectural styles – Tudor and Georgian with the chapel being Victorian.   We arrived a little early as the museum doesn’t open until 1pm, though the café is open all day.  To fill in time we looked around the walled gardens.  There were some greenhouses filled with vegetables and this made a nice spot to be for a short while to get a bit warmer as though it was bright there was a keen wind.  We explored the lawn area then went to the café for some lunch – filling soup and bread.  By the time we were finished the museum was open so we had a stroll through it.  There was a ‘letters’ exhibition (calligraphy) which was interesting.  Much of the house is not open to the public so there are not many rooms to view.  The museum itself is quite interesting but for me the highlight was the Tait Chapel. It’s quite stunning with stained glass windows. In the 1950’s wall paintings were added to both sides of the chapel and there is a beautiful mosaic as you come into the chapel.
Tait Chapel


Part of the mosaic

What a nice display!
On leaving the Palace we headed back to the river and began walking.  There were great views across the river, the tide was out and many gulls and ducks were evident.  I was surprised how quiet and peaceful it was apart from aircraft flying in to Heathrow but even that didn’t bother me.  The sun was out as were rowers and we ambled along the pathway.  Most of the time we were right by the river but there were a few detours like around Fulham Football Club and Riverside Studios and then we were at Hammersmith Bridge.  I was keen to find the house where William Morris once lived so we walked a little further up the path until we found it.  These days it is the William Morris Society.  It was shut but I will be returning.  I became fascinated by the clouds forming towards Chiswick - dark, brooding clouds but with shafts of sunlight filtering through.  I took rather a lot of photos! We passed by some nice pubs (there are always nice pubs by rivers) including The Dove where William Morris used to drink and at different times was also the haunt of Graham Greene and Ernest Hemmingway.  Returning to Hammersmith Bridge we walked across it onto the other side which was much more shaded and woody.  Here we found evidence of the St Jude storm which blew over us on Monday.  There were several trees down across the path but only towards the end of the walk did we have leave the path because of tree damage.  There were lots of smaller branches blown across too.  From this side, with the sun behind us, I was able to take a few different shots.  My back began to play up, a little shortly followed by knees and tops of legs.  Even though I play sport I haven’t walked this far in some time.  I have to say it was good to sit down on the bus to go home.

 
Harrods old warehouse now exclusive riverside apartments
It was a lovely day and I am already planning the next walk.  The Thames Path National Trail is 184 miles long (double if you are walking both banks, which might not be possible in some places).  The source begins in the Cotswolds and goes right through to the Thames Barrier and out into the sea.

I have walked parts of this before – Kingston to Hampton Court, Kingston to Teddington Lock, almost to Ham and London Eye to Tower Bridge and the O2 to the Thames Barrier.  There is so much to see.  The maps suggest routes with walking times and miles, highlights on the walk etc., but I am taking slightly smaller chunks and fitting in visits to places along the way.  Obviously for me the London area is easiest for now as it is easy to get too but I hope I shall be able to walk some of the other routes as there are many places I have never been.  Maybe it will inspire you to walk some place you haven’t before.  It will take me years to complete the whole pathway.  I just hope I have time!

Interesting clouds - looking towards Chiswick
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