Golders Green, NW London

 

I spent a lovely day in Golders Green last week. For once the weather was just perfect. This is not a part of London I know well and looking through my many books about London, I came across Hill Gardens and Pergola, in Hampstead. I realised afterwards that I could have reached it via Golders Hill Park, but I went by the map I found. This took me up hill, leaving the road on a path above it. I was surprised by how green this part of London was, just like being in the countryside.

The path above the road

Taking a right off the main road, and with no signposting, I spotted the top of a building and knew I had arrived. Left down a path and there it was. The sight was stunning. This seemed to be the day for photoshoots, as there was one on one of the walkways, and another down in the gardens. From the conversation as they walked past me these were pre-wedding photos. 

I don't think I've taken as many photos in one day in a long time, both here, in the park, and later over the other side of Golders Green. Everywhere I turned, there was a photo opportunity. The gardens and park were free open spaces, and very diverse.

The gardens were commissioned by Lord Leverhulme in 1904. A man who had gained his wealth through soap, needed a place to host garden parties (as you do!). After his death and the World War II, the place fell into disrepair. It is now being restored, and yes, it is licenced for weddings! The day I was there the wisteria hung in bunches everywhere. After walking the walkways, I headed down to the gardens with its pool and benches.

Adjoining these gardens is Golders Hill Park, another stunning green space. Here you can find a stream with bridges, a small animal zoo (donkeys, ring tailed lemurs, birds and so on), gardens with a pond (where I stopped to eat my lunch accompanied by a very tame squirrel), plenty of grassy spaces and a butterfly house. The latter was shut, and I'm not sure if that's permanent or not. There is also a large cafe with outdoor seating where I had a cuppa, and toilets.

I had seen on my Google map that Marc Bolan's grave was in a crematorium on the other side of Golders Green station. As I had time, and had earlier this year visited the memorial where he died in a car crash in Barnes, I decided to take a look. In my teenage years, I had a T Rex poster on my bedroom wall and loved his music. I could not miss this opportunity of going to pay tribute.

Golders Green Crematorium in Hoop Lane turned out to be a very special place. For one it was beautiful, and another, it was interesting. So many famous names can be found here. The atmosphere is calm and gentle. I would be quite happy to end up here! I found three references to Marc Bolan with plaques on a wall,  and inside a room I took to be dedicated to Jewish people. I checked to see the connection, and Marc was half Jewish and brought up in the Jewish faith. The bench with the swan carved into it in the gardens is beautiful.

 I also found other names, like Keith Moon of the Who, Bud Flannigan and Bernie Winters. Some of the chapels were open, but the place that took my breath away was the Chapel of Memory. I must admit I was reluctant to leave. There is certainly something about this place. Some of the flower beds are named after poets, such as Keats and  Byron, others after people, like an opera singer. This might not be your idea of a day out to visit a crematorium, but you will not be disappointed. There are plenty of places to sit as well as toilets, if you need them.

Hall of Memory

Over the road, is the Jewish cemetery, which says 'no photography', though I'd already taken a photo of the gate before I realised. One half of the cemetery is a mass of stone graves on gravel and no green planting. I found that stark and desolate. The other half there was grass and some planting. It didn't feel welcoming and I didn't feel encouraged to look around.

Gate to Jewish Cemetery 

My last visit was to see a church I'd noticed as I'd turned into Hoop Lane. The architecture caught my eye. St Edward the Confessor RC church was open. How lucky was I? There are tiny side chapels as well as a beautiful ceiling. I had the place to myself. A nice chance to stop and think about the day.

My legs ached by the time I walked back to the station, but the memories of that day will stay with me for a long time.