Dorchester-on-Thames, the village of 'two ways'. The village where Midsomer Murders is filmed (including our hotel). It has lots of pubs, one shop and no cash point. The village that seems stranded in the middle of nowhere. The village with a magnificent Abbey and a breathtaking church. This is where a friend and I spent one night and somehow managed to find our way out of the next morning!
Midsomer Murders filmed in these places in Dorchester-on-Thames
Originally, we had booked The White Hart Hotel as a starting point to walk the Thames Path to Abingdon. Since my friend was still having problems with her knee, we decided to make the most of the village and to finish the path walk we abandoned the time before.
The X40 bus runs between Reading and Oxford. We used it at Shillingford back to Reading last time, and we used it again this time to take us to Berensfield Layby, the stop for Dorchester-on-Thames. The journey takes a little over an hour from Reading. We got to see more of the Oxfordshire countryside, and we didn't have to cross the busy bypass, though there is a bridge.
There is a pathway to the village, but we weren't sure, even from the map, which way. Two locals walking a dog came along and that was the first encounter with, 'well, there are two ways.' It became the mantra for the whole visit.
We walked down an alley-like path and reached the bins (as directed) and turned right. Not long afterwards we entered the high street. Quiet. Not like a normal high street. But pretty. We were too early to book in, so we had lunch in the bar of the hotel before setting off towards the River Thames. The day was warm and sunny. We knew the forecast for Thursday was heavy rain, so we needed to do everything we could today. A little further on we came across the Museum, tea shop and Abbey. The Museum and teas shop didn't open until 2pm, but luckily the Abbey was open. It is huge inside and with some old wall decoration in the side chapel. The stained glass windows are really something, included the east window, which has a support in the middle as this was likely to collapse. It has been nicely done. The window was restored in memorial to Sir Winston Churchill. The windows have figures engraved into the lattice work. It has to be seen to be appreciated. It seems a lively place with lots going on, like classical concerts.
The oldest part of the Abbey?
Peoples Chapel)
East window with support
(People's Chapel)
Side chapel
Shrine of St Birinus
Jesse Tree
East Window
Dorchester Abbey
From the Abbey, we followed the road over a bridge and found a footpath down to the Thames. From here we were able to pick up the Thames Path and walk to Days Lock where the previous walk ends. I had particularly wanted to view the Wittenham Clumps, which was a landscape painted by the artist Paul Nash. Had we not stopped here overnight, I don't think there would have been time for me to see them. We crossed a bridge, and I left my friend on a bench outside a church, and walked alone up the steep hill to 'the Clumps'. The view from the top was stunning.
Finally, the River Thames!
Bridge to Wittenham Clumps
Days Lock
The clumps are surrounded by a wire fence, but there are gates. It says not to enter on a windy day as the trees are old and could fall. Basically, you are there at your own risk. But I'd come this far, so I was going in! It was lovely and peaceful, with just the company of birds and squirrels. I took a lot of photos of the trees and the clump in general, before descending. It was worth the lung busting walk up! Enjoy this little video I took!
The two of us began the task of trying to find a pathway back to Dorchester without going all the way back to where we'd started. We asked a cyclist if the path he'd used went back to the village. 'You can go two ways...' he began! Even so, we retraced our steps at one point as it seemed to be taking us further out. I used Google Maps a lot! We found our way back on to a road and still confused as to which way, we asked a lady. Of course there were two ways! We took the path through the allotment. Boy, do they have stunning allotments. I was very impressed. We came out at the side of a house and found ourselves opposite the Abbey, It was close to closing time at the tea rooms, and we really wanted a cuppa. My friend said to go on ahead, and she would hobble after me! I crossed the road and entered the tea room. I'd made it in time to order tea. We got talking to a lady who happened to be staying at the same hotel and was walking the Thames Path in the other direction.She'd come from Abingdon that day and was off to Wallingford the next day.
The allotments
We were too late for the museum, but we'd accomplished everything else in the day. We checked in, and I was astounded to see in reception a well with goldfish. The hotel is all beams, corridors and steps. Very quaint. I'm assuming it was once an old coaching inn. It always amazes me how they fit everything into the rooms as they are never square, and have odd corners. My room overlooked the high street and the late night Co-op (handy as I'd forgotten my toothbrush!). The ensuite was lovely, and there was everything I needed for my stay. We were down in the dining room by 7pm for dinner. The food and service couldn't be faulted.
The well!
Can you see the fish?
I expected to see pouring rain in the morning, but though it was overcast, no rain. I cannot believe I ate a full English Veggie breakfast (must be the fresh air and walking). We checked out at 10am and it had just started drizzling. We decided to see if we could get into St Birinus Church before we left. We were lucky. Mass had just finished and we were allowed in. Wow! For a tiny church it is stunning. The Catholic Priest gave us a potted history to St Birinus who came there about 37 years after St Augustine brought Christianity to these shores. There is a picture of him and in the background are the Wittenham Clumps! I think the church was about to be locked for the day, so we were really lucky to see it.
St Birinus Catholic Church
St Birinus
The ceiling (sorry about bad lighting)
Dorchester Abbey behind a rather cute house.
General views of Dorchester
We headed back towards the layby to catch the bus into Oxford. We managed to get lost on our 'two ways out', but we got there. The bus came shortly afterwards. The drive into Oxford was interesting and beautiful and ended at Westgate Shopping Centre, Oxford where we nipped in for a cuppa. It was very easy to think we could spend some time here. There is so much to do, and even though I've been twice before on day trips, I've not covered half of it. We ambled towards the station, aware that Friday was train strike day and trains would stop early today. But we were on the train just after 12.30 and it was a journey of around an hour back to London.
Westgate Shopping Centre, Oxford
View from the Roof Terrace, Westgate
We'd had a fantastic stay in Dorchester-on-Thames and we are already planning next trips! If we have to leave the Thames Path for a while due to my friend's knee (she is seeing a physio today, as it happens), then Oxford is on the agenda!
NB There will be no blog for the next two Mondays as I am away on holiday, but I will post another blog this Friday to compensate!
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