Dorchester-on-Thames to Oxford over two days (Thames Path)

Allotments at Dorchester-on-Thames

 It's been around eleven months since I last picked up the Thames Path. The weather (flooded paths for most of spring) and time constraints have kept me from walking. Suddenly I had a window in my schedule and the weather looked promising, so I went for it and booked accommodation for my trip.

My friend who walks with me can no longer walk long distances, but we worked out that she could join me at Culham and we would walk the final two and quarter miles into Abingdon where we would stay overnight, so she at least got a flavour of the walk.

I had booked to stay at The White Hart in Dorchester-on-Thames overnight, a hotel the two of us stayed in last year. I took the train from London to Reading. Being a Sunday the X40 bus which runs between Reading and Oxford only runs once an hour and I was a bit early. I decided to go to Pret for a cuppa and use the facilities. And there was the first stupid thing I did. I accidentally left my Thames Path book in the ladies. But I didn't even notice until the evening. Meanwhile, I caught the bus, getting off at the Berinsfield Layby and walked into Dorchester and checked into the hotel during the first half of the England game. It was later that evening that I realised I'd left my book behind. My friend said she would bring hers for me to use for the second stretch.

In the morning, after a lovely breakfast, I packed my few things and called Pret in Reading. Yes, they had my book and would keep it for me for a month. Luckily, the Thames Path is well signposted in the main and I managed without it, using only Google Maps when I got to Culham.

The walk to Days Lock, the starting point of the first walk, is taken through some lovely allotments and across fields. At Days Lock  (see video below), I crossed the river and began the walk. It was a gorgeous day, warm and sunny with the odd cloud. The path was dry and the scenery beautiful. I saw a lot of wildlife, butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies and I tried my best to get photos, but they move from one place to another so fast. The sound of bees and birds, and the peace is wonderful. I saw very few people, but everyone said hello.

I encountered a herd of cows at one point. Usually they move away, but this bunch suddenly headed towards me. Cows don't usually worry me, but as they walked determinedly forward, I did have a moment...no, not panic, but I was wary. As they approached, I spoke to them like I do our dog, and maybe because they realised I had nothing for them, they parted. There were also lots of geese on the riverbank or in the river. Red Kites are common around this part and I saw many flying. I even caught one (rather badly) on video.

Days Lock

Geese

They are heading towards me!

Yeah, I'd like this house!

Handy map to see where I am. Red dot marks the spot.

About half way between Days Lock and Culham

The last part of the walk before reaching Culham was tough. I was walking through fields without much sight of the river and it seemed to go on forever. My friend had texted to say she was at Culham Station, so I tried to up my speed, but I arrived before her. This was the second mistake. Neither of us had realised the station at Culham was so far away from the village....about 35mins walk. The pub I thought was at Culham had been closed permanently for a long time and there was nothing at all at Culham. I parked myself on a piece of green at the junction of the High Street and took my walking shoes off to wait for my friend. I even got my lunch out to eat. At that point a man appeared and asked me if I would like a chair. I explained the situation and thanked him, but said I was really okay. He said if I changed my mind just come across to his house. I was so touched, but also amused. I became somewhat noticeable as people stared on passing. Having not heard from my friend, I called her and there was no answer. I tried texting again. Nothing. I was a little worried. Finally, she called me as I'd sent her instruction on the route into Culham from the station and where I was. She said she'd find me.

One of many fields on the way to Culham

I was sat opposite this sign post

Another man stopped and we got talking, Again I explained the situation and he offered to go and fetch my friend, and then said he'd take me to her. Just then my friend called again in a bit of a panic, having walked the wrong way along the busy Abingdon Road and was worried about her knee on this extra walk. I told her to stay where she was as we were coming to get her and watch for a white van!

And that's what we did. We picked her up and the man kindly drove us down to the river and our starting point for our walk into Abingdon. He was our hero. We couldn't thank him enough. My faith in people certainly went up that day. Ah, the kindness of strangers.

The walk into Abingdon was great and we soon saw the town in the distance. We walked across the bridge and went to a cafe by the river for a cuppa as it was a little early still to check in. We had a brief walk around Abingdon and while my friend was buying a bottle of water, I nipped into a charity shop. Fatal. I found a book I could not leave behind. My rucksack was already at full capacity, but I had spare bag! (Later I managed to get the book in the rucksack). We loved Abingdon and would love to return for a leisurely look around as there is lots to see.

Coming into Abingdon

Abingdon

Abingdon Bridge

Kingfisher Barn B&B

We had booked The Kingfisher Barn B&B for the night, as everywhere in town was full. But we loved it there. This is a barn conversion with self-catering apartments and chalets set around a courtyard festooned with patio furniture. I was so impressed that there were oat milk sachets on the hospitality tray (never has that happened and I always take my own supplies of alternative milk). We decided to order a pizza delivery and we ate it in the courtyard. We met some nice people there too, including a young dutch lady who was walking the Thames Path in the other direction. We asked her to sit and eat with us (she had her own food). When she heard about the book I left behind in Reading, she offered to pick it up and post it back to me. Another act of kindness. I gave her my details and true to her word she picked up. It arrived on Saturday with a postcard with her address.

The breakfast hut offered cereals, fresh fruit, boiled eggs toast and croissants. I made myself a sandwich for the walk to Oxford and said goodbye to my friend at Abingdon bridge. She had thought she would join me until Radley, but decided not to. I think it was a wise choice as it seemed much further to walk than I expected and the footpath gave no directions. The day was cooler, overcast and the threat of rain off an on.

The first part of the walk was mainly without river views.  I'd hear birds and the odd putter of craft doing up or down, but the path had beautiful wild flowers. At Sandford lock, I crossed over to The Kings Arm Public House for a cuppa and use the facilities. It was quiet at that time, around 11.30am. I had to wait for the swing bridge to move back as a boat was going through the lock. I got talking to a lady while waiting and we found out we lived in the same town! Neither of us could believe it. 

A brief glimpse of the river

Lots of this kind of walking

A bit like the Secret Garden

Radley College Boatbouse and The Kings Arms, Sandford

I set off again, saw the boat house at Nuneham, but I couldn't see the house mentioned in my friend's book until I was quite a way from it. At least I think that was the house I saw high up in the trees. Apparently, Lewis Carroll used to take picnic parties here from Oxford. Later, I walked under the Kenington Bridge constructed in 1923. I reached Iffley Lock and knew I was well on my way now and stopped for something to eat. 

Iffley Lock

Gradually, I came to the outskirts of Oxford. This lulls you into thinking you are almost there, but there is still a fair way to walk. Reaching Folly Bridge is another landmark, yet I was still not there. The river twists and turns reaching Osney Marina and island. Not far now. 

Near Folly Bridge, Oxford

When I came to the bridge I was relieved and headed for the station. The previous day I had walked just over 11 miles. The walk to Oxford and incidental walking to get home took me to just over 12 miles.

The other side of the bridge (two bridges to be exact)

Osney Lock, Oxford

From now on the walks get more difficult due to transport. Isolated walks with no villages and no transport. Walks that will have to be done over a few days until I reach a place where I can catch a bus back to a station. Lots of planning to do in the future. I was so pleased to complete this part of the walk and getting a little closer to the source in Gloucestershire. It had been an eventful trip, with lots of laughs, but also pain (my toes suffered in the shoes on the second walk), and the kindness of strangers I will never forgot.