The thing I most worried about on going to Orkney was the weather. The holiday was a walking and sightseeing trip with HF Holidays. Orkney is remote with high cliffs and has a reputation for being windy and wet. I'm not good with either!
The view from my bedroom over Loch Harray
Orkney was experiencing the best summer in many years and had a two day mini heatwave the week before we arrived. Thankfully, their summer extended into our week, and though cold compared to the rest of Scotland and England, we had sun for most of the week. Temperatures hung around the 13c and 12c, but with bright sunshine. But yes, that wind did catch us! One day the wind factor brought down the feel factor to 9c. I arrived back at the hotel very cold, made a hot drink and then got into bed with all my clothes on to warm up! After that day, I wore two fleeces over a long sleeve top, as well a bandana for my neck. A woolly hat was useful, as was the waterproof jacket for the wind. The waterproof trousers I bought years ago were finally christened, but only for a short time. Later in the week, I bought myself a pair of gloves as I forgot to bring mine.
Walking-wise, the longest walk was stated as six miles, but with the added walking while visiting sites on the islands we racked up between eight and nine miles most day. That I coped with well.
So what is Orkney like? As I said, it is remote, there are few trees. It is green, and it has probably the most Neolithic sites anywhere, and that's what I came for. There was so much to take in, and I haven't yet had the chance to read up everything I bought. It seemed so strange to visit sites I had only seen on TV.
All seasons in one day. Both photos were taken the on the same day!
Our hotel stood by the Loch of Harray, offering beautiful sunsets. My room half looked over the car park, but I still had a view of the loch. In the rooms we had mugs made by the local potter, aptly named Harray Potter! Love it. Each evening our leader described the next days events, the weather, pick up times, places we would visit and the terrain of walking. Days were long as we were picked up by mini bus at 9.15am and didn't return until around 5pm, sometimes a little later. Nearly everyone was in bed by 10pm or so. One night I was so shattered I had lights out at 9.30pm! However, I slept well. Must have been all that fresh air and walking. We were a group of ten and we had lots of fun together.
Some of the group (Brough of Birsay)
We arrived on Orkney in the rain, but the forecast was reasonable good for our first full day. Though overcast to start with, the day picked up. We walked from Marwick Bay to the Brough of Birsay seeing Kitchener's Monument where we lunched on the beach. As the causeway wasn't covered we were able to cross it to view the Pictish and Norse settlements and visit the lighthouse.
The start of our walk
Walking up
Kitchener's Monument
Lunch time
Settlements
Weathering
Coming back the same we way we set off for Maes Howe, one of the most treasured Neolithic sites in Europe. The tomb is built from sandstone blocks 5,000 years old and aligns with the winter solstice. To get inside you have to bend down and follow the low entrance into the chamber itself. Here you can see the original stone columns and side chambers. There would have one point have been a proper roof, but one the Victorians opened it (from the roof) they needed to cover it again. It has a wooden roof now. Later visitors have added graffiti to the stone, but there is also Norse Runic graffiti! I would urge you to look at the links I have added to read more about each place mentioned here.
Maes Howe
Coming out of Maes Howe
The second day we were driven to Stromness to catch the ferry to Hoy. This was rather exciting and I opted (as many did) to stay outside and enjoy the ride. I admit I spent most of the time leaning over the side to watch the waves!
Stromness from the ferry
Once on Hoy we were driven to Rackwick Bay to start out walk to the Old Man of Hoy. The walk was steep in places and over lots of stones, so it paid to be careful where you placed your feet. It was the only day I used a walking pole. The view from the top was breathtaking. Here we had our lunch, one of our group finding a spot away from the constant wind.
Rackwick Bay
Old Man of Hoy
On our return we had time to look at the old school house, used until the early 1950's, before we were picked up to visit another tomb in the hillside. One has to back inside it, and there are two chambers either side. We then visited a Heritage Centre before stopping for hot drinks and a toilet before our return to the ferry. A brilliant day.
The Old Schoolhouse
Our leader climbing out of the tomb
Boardwalk to the tomb
Neolithic house, Heritage Centre
Ferry docking to take us back to Stromness
There was a lot on the agenda for the following day, and for me this was the coldest day, though the sites stunning. We began at Skara Brae, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before going outside there is an indoor exhibition and short film about the site. I was amazed by what was still here and the view over the bay was breathtaking (sorry, I might use that term a lot!). There was time to visit Skaill House, built around 400 years ago. It doesn't look that stunning from the outside, but it really is worth seeing. The inside is lovely.
Re-creation of one of the Neolithic houses (exhibition room)
Skara Brae
Skaill House
From Skara Brae we began our walk to Yesnaby along the bay and up into the cliffs. High up we were walking on fossils. I have never seen so many. One of our group found a gorgeous fish fossil. I brought some fossils back with me, but never found one as good as the fish. We also encountered lots of Geo stacks. Here you can see the layers of rock, going back through the years. Many were overhanging the sea, and weather had eroded between rocks causing inlets and strange stacks.
The bay at Skara Brae
Walking on fossils
Fish fossil
Lunch!
Old ruined Broch
We arrived at the pick up point early. The wind was now going it and I was getting cold. To keep moving we walked a little further up the path to keep warm, before turning back to the meeting place. I stood behind a building to keep away from the wind and was pleased when the mini bus arrived. We headed towards the Standing Stones of Stenness and the Barnhouse (now covered over, but recreated for us next to the original). Our final walk concluded at the Ring of Brodgar, which is even older than Stonehenge! To walk through the stones (where you can no longer get close to Stonehenge) was a privilege. Despite feeling very cold, I made the most of this chance to run my hands over the stone and try to capture the atmosphere. The sun had almost gone, and the wind was blowing across the circle, in a way creating its own ambiance.
Standing Stones of Stenness
Barnhouse reconstruction
Ring of Brodgar
Very cold but still smiling!
I was not sorry to get back to the hotel, and this was the day I climbed into bed with all my clothes on!
Part 2 of this post is coming shortly, where we visit the capital of Orkney for the day, more historic sites, pass over Churchill's barriers from World War II, and visit an Italian Chapel.
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