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| Near Osney Bridge, Oxford |
It was time for me and my friend to venture forth again, despite my niggling foot and my friend's knee problem. We had diligently worked out routes with bus connections, so as not to have a repeat of last the walk (getting stuck at a station so far out from the village), and we set off mid afternoon to Oxford for an overnight stay. To save money we brought our own breakfast for the morning and sandwiches for the evening and just went downstairs to the bar for a drink and to go over the route in my beloved Thames Path book and talk through our timings etc.
At around 9.30am we set off and headed for Osney Bridge. We had already cursed Oxford for the road works by the station, and I was looking forward to getting away from the noise and people. First obstacle was a barrier around the place where we were to join the Thames Path. There were traffic diversions present, but nothing about walking. We had to walk back to the road works and ask a workman. He insisted we could still get there, and to take the right hand road. We took him at this word, which was right actually and walked down Abbey Road. Another couple were also confused and followed us. Soon, on the left hand side was a 'pedestrian' sign, being the footpath down to the river. We called to the other couple who had marched off and were still heading down the road. I admit I cheered when I saw we were at the river. It is more evident walking in the other direction where to come off. I hope Oxford gets the roads sorted soon as it's a complete mess.
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| Diversion at Osney Bridge |
Our plan was for the two of us to walk to Godstow Bridge where my friend would catch a bus back to Oxford and another out to Eynsham where I had booked our overnight accommodation. It was a pretty walk, and soon we came to a pub called The Perch. Should we stop? When my friend told me that Gerard Manley Hopkins wrote his poem Binsey Poplars there, I said, 'Oh, well we have to go there now', me being a fan of the poet.
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| The Perch |
So there we were, hanging around the gate, waiting for someone to come and unlock it. We were a little early for their 11am opening time. So, we were the first customers. Ah, what a nice pub. Soon we were on the sofa by the fire....yes, a real fire in August, so comforting, so let's stay for a while longer! I highly recommend the facilities too. It was a wrench to lift the heavy rucksacks onto our backs and leave.
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| Cosy by the fire with pots of tea! |
Not far from there, we came to the ruins of Godstow Abbey, a nunnery with royal connections. Do check out the website for history and photos. At the bridge nearby, I said farewell to my friend as she headed to the bus stop at Lower Wolvercote village, and I carried on towards Eynsham. We kept in touch by text so we each knew where the other was.
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| Godstow Bridge |
The day was overcast and windy, but walking kept me warm. There were a few fields to tramp through after King's Lock, but Wytham Woods were lovely. Arriving at Swinford Bridge (Eynsham), I turned off the path and walked over the bridge. Here you come across a Toll Booth. There cannot be many of these left in England. Walking through is free, by the way! And then as I was approaching the hotel I saw a bus. The stop was opposite the hotel, and there was my friend crossing the road! How is that for timing?
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| King's Lock |
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| Wytham Woods |
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| Swinford Bridge |
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| Toll House |
After checking in and the all-important cuppa, we set off into the village to see what was there. It was quiet, but a rather nice place. We walked into St Leonard's Church, whose bells were being removed that day. We could hear the banging coming from the tower. We had a wander through the square and gradually made our way back to the hotel for a rest before dinner.
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| Eynsham |
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| War Memorial |
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| St Leonard's Church |
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| Shame about the road barriers, bins and portaloo! |
Normally, we have separate rooms, but to save money (it gets expensive with train fares and accommodation, which seems to increase the further into rural Oxfordshire we go), we decided to risk it and share a room at The Talbot Inn. Iam pleased to say we are still friends, and it worked out fine!
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| Table by the window for dinner - Talbot Inn |
However, my friend decided that she had overdone the walking the day before. Her knee was very painful by the time we got back from our village wander. She was also conscious that I had a bus to catch at Newbridge, which only came every three hours, and she didn't want to hold me back. So we said our goodbyes outside the hotel where we had a lovely and substantial breakfast.
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| Pinkhill Lock |
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| Weir |
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| Encounter with sheep |
This second walk was longer than the first at around seven and a half miles and from research done the night before, there was nowhere to stop as the Ferryman Inn at Bablock Hythe was closed on Tuesday due to staff shortages. The walk began prettily, but before long I was tramping across fields of sheep, so many sheep and not a sight of the river anywhere. The weather had started warm and sunny, but dark clouds were brewing. Finally, in a sheep field, of course, the rain swept across the field but luckily there were trees bordering the fence, so I sheltered there. I didn't think the shower would last, and I didn't want to have to get my brolly out. The sheep were not happy with the rain either. Their bleats picked up and they headed in my direction to shelter with me. We had this one way conversation. They were wary of me, but because I didn't move they stayed. My words of reassurance I don't think cut it, but they took the risk! Have you noticed how sheep's eyes look very alien? Once the rain stopped, I said goodbye to the sheep. They did not reply!
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| Shower coming....run for the trees |
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| Sheep join me |
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| The Ferryman Inn, Bablock Hythe - closed |
The sun came out and more fields of sheep. At Bablock Hythe there were no benches and I eventually sat down on the riverbank further on, using my trusty Thames Path book against the wet grass (it had rained in the night). Then I came to the field of cows. Now, I don't have a problem with cows on the whole, but I was on my own and they were all heading towards the gate I had to go through. They had spied a nice shady tree there. I just had to go for it, but I was rather relieved when I was on the other side.
The journey to Newbridge suddenly seemed endless. More fields, this time a narrow one with nettles on one side and electric fence on the other. Which would I prefer to experience? Finally, I saw more people, which is a good indicator that these are local people and near my destination. I'd hardly met anyone during the whole walk, bar a couple of men fishing. And then through a gap in the trees, I had my first glimpse of the bridge. Around a few more corners and I was upon The Rose Revived at Newbridge. Finally, I had my pot of tea!
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| Field of cows |
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| Newbridge |
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| The Rose Revived |
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| Newbridge from the pub garden |
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| The Rose Revived |
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| View from Newbridge |
I've come to expect the unexpected on my river trips. This one is also crazy. I decided to go and look for the bus stop, though I was an hour early. I literally bumped into a lady directing a car out of a pub carpark which was in the middle of the bridge and dangerous. The bridge is narrow with traffic lights at each end, as only one line of vehicles can cross at a time. Anyway, we got chatting, as you do, and she then offered me a lift to Witney, where she said I could get several buses to Oxford. So a slung my backpack into her car and she drove me to Witney, just around the corner from the bus stops. Such a kind lady. I was so grateful.
Witney looks lovely, and I'd like to go back one day and have a proper look around. I caught the first bus that came that said Oxford. I don't think this was the most direct, but I didn't care. We drove through some lovely villages and countryside. I was enjoying the journey.
Finally, back in Oxford, I had to negotiate the road works again at the station. It had been a tiring day. My friend had been home for hours, but my head was already contemplating the next walk. And I realise that I am now only around 40 miles away from the source. I'm getting closer!
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| Witney |
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