Durham, riverside walks, gardens, Cathedral and Castle

Riverside pathway

On our first full day in Durham hubby wanted to spend time in the Record Officer to see what he could find out about his ancestors who lived here. While he was off doing that I headed into the city and took a leisurely walk on the riverside path, taking in both sides. It was a wonderful morning and the views were beautiful. I found a spot where Turner painted a view and some other interesting spots, including a small holiday house built for a Polish dwarf, all three foot seven of him. The house was apparently lived in for a time and later was used as a cafe.

The view painted by Turner now in The Scottish National Gallery

St Oswalds Church

The old Museum now shut and moved near to the Cathedral (they were flooded)

By the time I strolled back the hotel around 1pm. I'd not heard from hubby so I decided to explore the nature reserve behind the hotel. Here there are several pathways but I stuck to one side. Part of the path leads to some houses and allotments. There were bluebells out and a few other plants. Few people seemed to walk here, though maybe it's busier at weekends. For a while I sat on a bench and read but the wind was beginning to pick up and the air was becoming chilly.

The back of the hotel

Flass Vale Nature Reserve

The following day hubby went off to meet a relative in a village outside Durham. I was meeting a friend later but had a morning to kill. I headed off to Crook Hall & Gardens which lies the other end of the river. I fell in love with this place. It had so many little individual gardens and there were colourful flowers everywhere. I wasn't actually sure that the house itself was open. I thought it opened only for grand teas. I was wrong. The house is wonderful, each room furnished and welcoming. The entrance is part of the original house and looks a bit creepy as the first hall is dark but then as you step into the room you just want to spend time there. There is an art gallery and a courtyard gallery where cream teas are served. Around the gardens are plenty of places to sit and admire the surrounding and there is a further cafe and shop by the main entrance. I'd certainly return there. I'm sure there must be new things to see each time in the gardens.

Crook Hall

A real fire!

Note the kissing owls

My friend arrived at the hotel and we had lunch before we set off into the city and had a short walk. It was great to catch up. We spent a lot of time drinking coffee and talking before returning to the hotel to sit in their gardens over pots of tea.

The next day was to be our museums and cathedral day. We went to Durham Cathedral first, which was actually free to go into. You cannot take photos in there so do take a look at their website. I was keen to see the shrine to St Cuthbert. There is also the tomb of Bede, Both monks are rather heroes of mine. There is also a haunting wooden sculpture of Mary and Jesus which was originally at York Minster and was damaged when the roof caught fire. Lead fell on and into it. There was a great worry over the cost of repair but the artist was happy to leave it as it is and it has since come to light that the best way to preserve wood is the fill it with lead. The only lead you can see is a small amount on the body of Jesus and a patch draped over one shoulder of Mary. I think it adds something to it.

A side chapel (where the tomb of Bede is) was given over to different spirituality stations - areas marked out for prayer, each one with interactive and thought provoking things to do. For instance one part had footprints marked out inviting people to walk on them asking God to direct where you should go next in life. Another area was an invitation to scatter petals while praying for your family, or to make your fingerprint on a paper leaf and hang it on a plant. There was also a place where you could read stories of refugees and what they had brought with them in the boats. We were invited to write a message for a refugee and place it in one of the rucksacks there.

I was delighted to find a such a spiritual corner. Downstairs there is the cafe and shop. Oh the shop! I could feel a big spend coming on....and there was. I came back with books, a piece of jewellery and a coaster. I had to be mindful of what would go in the suitcase, especially as the day before I'd bought a whole outfit in Monsoon for a wedding!

It is downstairs where the model of Durham Cathedral is laid out in Lego. It is magnificent. The detail is astounding. You can buy a brick for £1 and add to it as it is not yet complete, but well on the way now. This is  must see!

From the cathedral we had a look round the Museum of Archaeology before joining a tour of Durham Castle. We were only able to see a small part of it as it is student accommodation for Durham University but we did see two chapels, one really old one in the form of crypt. We also saw the hall where students eat. A few were still there revising their law books!

That evening we went out to dinner with the friends of hubby's we bumped into on the day we arrived. They took us to a Toby Carvery and we had a lovely meal.

The final day began damp and cold. We spent time in the Heritage Centre and had a hot drink in St Nicholas Church, took our last photos and had a final wander along part of the riverside. Somehow I managed to get the suitcase shut in the morning which arrived bright and sunny and we said our goodbyes to Durham and took the train home.

Sculpture of Monks carrying the coffin of St Cuthbert

Durham Cathedral

Cloisters

Durham Castle