The delights of Rotherhithe (Circular Walk)

 

View to the north bank from Bermondsey

Today I bunked off choir rehearsal to join Walk London With Us in a two hour circular walk around Rotherhithe. We met at Bermondsey tube station and headed straightaway towards the Thames Path. I have walked this section before but I'd not deviated from the river. So there was a mix of old and new for me today.

Dr Alfred Salter's statute occupies a place with his family along by the Thames. Born in 1873 in Greenwich he spent his life helping the poor  His wife Ada was a campaigner for the poor and became the first women London Mayor (Bermondsey) in 1922. Despite all Dr Salter did for others he was unable to save his only child, a girl who died of of scarlet fever aged eight. (More information can be read here).

Dr Salter

Opposite Dr Salter is a piece of land where the Manor House belonging to King Edward III once was. Little remains now, just part of the wall. It is said that he came here to shoot Snipe as hunting wasn't allowed.

In the past there'd been little building done on this, the south, side of the river, owing to the marshy land . Anyone who was anyone lived on the north bank where gravel made it easier to build. Looking across onto the north bank you can see how much more built up it is, though Rotherhithe now has new apartment buildings, yet it's quiet and feels calm. Back in the day the south side was the seedy part of London with its theatres, bear baiting and prostitutes. To cross the river you would need a lighterman to take you across. The steps to these boats, or barges, ran alongside buildings adjacent to the Thames.

Deviating from the path we came to a communal area with allotments and meeting places for local people. The building was once an old mortuary (apparently mentioned in Our Mutual Friend by Charles Dickens). Stories of body snatchers abound and payments were made to those who could find details of the deceased or for finding their family. Mmm nice work.

Allotments

We did not have time to visit the church from where The Mayflower set sail to America. However, in  the church gardens is a statue to Christopher Jones who captained the ship in 1620. Further along is The Mayflower Pub which I did get to go inside just to take a peak, sadly not to stop (that's for another time). Nearby is the statue of a Pilgrim Father looking over the shoulder of a small boy reading The Sunbeam Weekly. To read more about this click here.

Statue to Christopher Jones, Captain of The Mayflower

Notices on the front of The Mayflower pub

Soon we came to the Brunel Museum. Here there is a nice seating area outside with some wonderful unique benches. I've never been in the museum, and there wasn't time today, though we did take a peak inside where the steps lead down. (Later walking to Rotherhithe station we saw one of the Brunel tunnel air shafts).

The Brunel Museum

Surrey Docks is an interesting place and the Bascule Bridge and Lock Gates dominate. It is an area I want to return to as there is so much to see. There's a nice article here if you want to know the history of the docks. Walking away from the river we came to what is known as Surrey Water, and off it another 'cut' which runs to Canada Water. But we were almost at the end of walk and headed to Rotherhithe Overground station (which now runs on the old Brunel tunnel.

Bascule Bridge, Surrey Docks

Rotherhithe could easily be overlooked. It doesn't sound very inviting, but there is so much history and beauty here. A nicer day would have been better to view it but at least it didn't rain, and for that I was grateful.

The Thames at Rotherhithe

Surrey Water

The Cut