Five churches and the Barbican

Statue on top of Smithfield Market

After all the days of rain, and there were many, I finally had a free day (no dog sitting), and it was dry. Perhaps I went a little overboard with all that freedom, but this is what happens when you have been stuck indoors for days.

So, I began at Mansion House tube and walked to St Mary-le-Bow church, on Cheapside (cheap meaning market), one of three churches I visited that day appearing in the book The 100 Best London Churches.

St Mary-le-Bow is the church Bow bells is mentioned being born within hearing of to be a Cockney. It is also the second church Christopher Wren rebuilt after the Fire of London in 1666. 



The stained glass windows are vibrant and the ceiling, capitals, and cornices are quite spectacular.





There is a cafe serving lunch in the crypt, but it was a little too early for lunch for me, so it was time to move on. I had no clear plan for my day after this church, so I looked at my map to see what else was in the area and walkable. London is a very walkable place, so I avoid using the tube, and especially the bus once in London.



St Mary-let-Bow, Cheapside


My next port of call was St Bartholomew the Less, the church of St Bart's hospital. I cannot remember if I have been in here before. If, so it was a long time ago. Founded in 1123, this and St Bartholomew the Great (also founded in 1123) are twin churches. Somehow, this church looks newer than its twin, but the signs are there when you look. It has box pews to the side, and where the walls are stripped back it shows. Much smaller than its twin, it is in effect a chapel to the hospital. Outside is The Princess Alice Garden, a serene place to sit away from the hustle and bustle of Smithfield.

St Bartholomew the Less


Stained glass windows by Hugh Easton


Box pews




Princess Alice Garden


A diversion away from churches for a moment here as I walked through Smithfield Market, something I don't remember doing before. I certainly wouldn't want to visit when it is open, being a vegetarian.

Smithfield Market






I doubled back then to visit St Bartholomew the Great, a church I have visited several times before, but I love this place. It leaks ancient from its walls. The church has been used many times for filming, including Four Weddings & a Funeral. The churchyard is way above the entrance. This is due to the amount of bodies buried there over the years, one on top of the other. No burials take place there now.

Entrance to St Bartholomew the Great


Sculpture by Damien Hirst,
 'Exquisite Pain'. St Bartholomew was one of Jesus' Apostles and was tortured and skinned alive.











The Ressurrected Christ








The gardens

And now an interlude as I found myself at the Barbican, a unique Brutilist estate built after the bombing of the Second World War. It is vast, and easy to get a little lost. It has its own private conservatory for residents (visitors can see it some days, which used to be Sundays - you'd need to check). One of the features of the estate is the colourful window boxes.



Conservatory




A bit of Roman wall

St Giles, Cripplegate



More Roman wall


St Giles, Cripplegate is a vast church and notable people are associated with it, including John Milton, who wrote Paradise Lost, (buried with his father) and Oliver Cromwell married here. There is a whole list of famous people who lived in the area from Edward Alleyn, an actor who founded Dulwich College to Ben Jonson (another actor and playwright) and John Bunyan. Do look at the website as there is so much information there about the church, its windows and history. I really liked this church. They even have a room with a second hand book shop, which of course I browsed!

Before this church there was a Norman church and before that a Saxon one stood here. It feels light an airy.










The second hand book room


From here I made way through the banking section of London and towards Guildhall where I made my final church visit at St Lawrence, Jewry.

St Lawrence, Jewry




1 Poultry


Guildhall and Art Gallery

St Lawrence, Jewry - Commonwealth chapel


At this point I wound my way through Watling Street, a Roman Road that ran from Dover, through London and St Albans to Wroxeter. I headed down to the north bank of the Thames, crossing over at Blackfriars Bridge to the south side. Here are some remaining photos of my trip.





St Paul's


Millennium Bridge and Tate Modern

Blackfriars - a station on the river


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